Yet another scarf joint post

Yes it's time for an update on how I get the angle on my headstock. There are many ways to get it done, this is what works for me. The trusty and sometimes frustrating scarf joint...

To get the angle I like I measure 4 to 4 1/2" across the edge of the stock and mark my cut line.. 

That was how I did it until I built a jig to cut my scarf joints anyway.

Below you will see the jig I came up with, a base with two uprights to guide the saw. This little jig has vastly improved my cuts. I put a piece of black walnut in the jig for contrast. Before this jig I spent a lot of time fixing my freehand cuts.  

The saw in place and ready to cut. 

I switched out the Black Walnut for a piece of Maple for the rest of the demo.

The neck and head pieces are now separated (shown as they were cut) 

For glue up I take the short headstock piece and place it below the neck.

Positioned here the headstock would be 3/4" thick, I need it to be thinner.

By moving the short head piece to the right I can adjust the thickness of the headstock. The excess will be cut off after the glue is dry.

The tuners I use need the headstock to be 5/8" thick or a little less.  

When I get the thickness I want I put a witness mark across the joint and it's on to glue up. 

I apply glue to both halves of the joint. 

Knowing the joint is going to slip as soon as I put a clamp on it I start with the head piece about 1/8" to the left of my witness mark on the neck. 

As expected the two halves have slipped under clamp pressure, my witness marks are now lined up. 

After applying the rest of the clamps the joint has slipped a little more. Not to worry it is still close to 5/8"  

I like to clamp the neck to my work bench / old kitchen table to keep the head aligned with the neck.