With the scarf joint for the headstock complete I'm on to the next step. The next part I'm making is the fretboard. I was intimidated the first time I tackled this job. The fret spacing is critical, it has to be right or the CBG is going to sound like crap. But how precise does it need to be? Stringed instruments with frets have been being made by mere mortals for a long time, long before calculators, computers and CNC machines. So go for it, take your time and be as precise as you can.
The neck on this build is maple and I'll be using maple for the fretboard. I like to mix it up some times and use a wood with contrasting colors, it just depends on what I have on hand and my mood.
Most guitars have a scale length around 24 or 25 inches. I had decided on a 24" scale for this build, a shorter scale means less tension is needed to get the strings in tune compared to a longer scale.
There are plenty of fret calculators available online, I don't have a favorite I just Google "fret calculator" and use which ever one comes up that is easy to use. I like to use millimeters instead of inches, it's easier for me to figure out where to mark 34.237 mm than it is to figure out 1.347 inches using a ruler. 24 inches is really close to 610 mm, so I'll use 610 mm for my scale length.
There is always the option of printing out a template, I've used them and they work fine. I just prefer this method.
My fretboard will end up being about 410 mm long. I'll mark the fretboard for 20 frets but may end up using only 19 frets. The final length will be determined when I decide the final position for the bridge.
To get started I lay my steel rule on the board and clamp it in position, I don't want it moving around while I'm marking the fret positions.
I use a knife to make a mark at each position. The knife makes a thinner mark than a pencil.
A short mark to start with...
Once all the fret positions are marked and double checked, I remove the ruler. I have a machinist square that I like to use to guide the knife for marking the full width of the fretboard. I place the tip of the knife in my first mark, it is easy to feel the mark with the tip of the knife. Then I slide the square up against the knife.
Holding the square firmly in place I mark the fret position the full width of the fretboard.
The frets are a "T" shape with teeth to help hold them in the fretboard.
The fret wire I'm using is about .021" thick between the teeth.
the teeth measure about .031" thick.
The blade of my coping saw is .021" thick, the same thickness as the fret wire. This will mean a nice tight fit for the teeth on the fret wire and eliminate the need for glue to hold the frets in place.
I use the knife again to position the square, placing the tip of the knife in the mark and slide the square up to the knife. I use the square to guide the saw blade until I have a good cut started.
I make the cut slightly deeper than the tang on the fret wire so that it doesn't bottom out before it is seated. A real fret saw is on my wish list, but this is working for now.
With the fret slots cut I need to find the final length of the fretboard. I marked the bridge position with a piece of tape and measure for a 24" scale.
The fretboard needs to be 16 1/2" long from the nut to the edge of the box.
The 20th fret position is very close to the right length so I will cut the fretboard there.
With the fret board cut to length it's time to glue it in place.
After letting the glue set up over night it is ready for the frets to be installed.
I got busy installing the frets and forgot to take pictures. I'll try to remember to get pictures on the next build and add that step here....
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